Procession for the Herdsmen

Phong Le Village in Hoa Chau Commune, Hoa Vang District, Da Nang City in Central Vietnam is known for having two special hamlets: Hen Hamlet where local villagers are engaged in catching mussels, and Dong Hamlet, renowned for ing and raising quality buffaloes. Once every three years, the local people hold a big procession in honour of the herdsmen, which occurs for two days in March of the lunar calendar, with the hope of being rewarded with a bumper harvest throughout the year.

Carrying the palanquin to Phong Le Village’s temple. Local farmers make obeisance in the temple.   Local children in herdsmen’s dress participate in the festival. Decorative items attached to the flags’ handle.   Joining in a folk game. Phong Le Village in Hoa Chau Commune, Hoa Vang District, Da Nang City in Central Vietnam is known for having two special hamlets: Hen Hamlet where local villagers are engaged in catching mussels, and Dong Hamlet, renowned for selecting and raising quality buffaloes. Once every three years, the local people hold a big procession in honour of the herdsmen, which occurs for two days in March of the lunar calendar, with the hope of being rewarded with a bumper harvest throughout the year. The local villagers recalled a story, saying that in the old days there was a grass dune in Phong Le Village. One day, a local farmer led a flock of ducks to the dune and the fowls feet became stuck, as if being held from below the surface of the ground. The news spread far and wide, starting a rumour that there was a Genie living in the dune. Nobody dared to visit the place again. The dune was named Con Than (Genie Dune). One day, a herd of buffaloes ran to the dune and the buffalo herders ran to retrieve them. Nothing bad happened to the boys. Again news spread heralding the dune was safe for buffaloes and the keepers, hence the name of the hamlet was changed to Dong (herdsman) Hamlet, where local herd men often gathered. Since that time, a festival has been held in honour of the buffalo boys, and it is called “Procession for the Herdsmen”. In late March, according to the lunar calendar, when the farm work is less hectic, preparations for the Procession for the Herdsmen begin. The land-owners, who are from middle-peasants upwards (i.e. who have several acres of land and a few buffaloes) are responsible for the organization of the procession rituals. They make small flags for the herdsmen, and large flags of the 13 family lines, who were living in the region at that time. The large flag’s handle is made from bamboo, 5m long. Along the handle are hung different figurines. They are the four sacred animals, a lion, dragon, tortoise and phoenix; figurines in the shape of four types of people, i.e. a soldier, peasant, worker and trader; and figurines of farming tools, such as a plough, rake, hoe, shovel, flat winnowing baskets, sieve, etc. With a hope to win prizes at the festival, each family line invites skilled carpenters from the famous Kim Bong craft village to carve the wooden figurines. Due to having so many figurines attached, the flag handle is very heavy and only strong young farmer can handle it. In the afternoon of lunar March 29, a “visiting the field” ritual is held. Children and grandchildren of the local farmers who are living far from home return and attend the event. The herdsmen, holding flags, walk across the fields with a hope that the field owners will have bumper crops. The last day of lunar March will be the official day for the rituals. Drums are beaten loudly in the early morning, reminding the villagers to gather at the yard of the communal temple. The chief of the herdsmen, dress in ceremonial attire, prays and makes obeisance in the temple’s main hall, then he holds a votive card and places it in the palanquin. The palanquin is decorated beautifully, with four roofs and the sides having flowers and colourful lanterns. Four strong young herdsmen carry the palanquin. Flags of the herdsmen lead the procession, followed by the large flags of the 13 family lines. Along with them a musical band is performing, making the environment very ceremonial. A representative of each family having buffaloes holds a tray of steamed sticky rice and fruits, some even having a boiled cock or a pig’s head, to join the procession. A crowd of villagers follows the procession. The most impressive image of the procession is the palanquin, which is carried out towards the Genie Dune, amidst the drum beating, musical sounds, and flickering torches. All makes up a peaceful picture of the rural area in the early morning. The rituals are complete when the sun rises. The farmers get back to their normal life, having a hope in their heart that they will have a bumper harvest by the end of the year. Besides ceremonial rituals, during the festive time, the local buffalo boys play folk games and perform interesting tricks that impress many visitors, not only locals but also foreign tourists during their stay in Da Nang. Procession for the herdsmen is held in Phong Le Village, Hoa Chau Commune, Hoa Vang District.